I’ve been scoring almost a whole cup of juice out of pomegranates lately – they’re imported, of course, but they seem to be much riper when they arrive at this time of year. If I want them for the juice, I roll them round on the benchtop with a bit of pressure; this releases all the juices that are locked inside the seeds. If you want to use the seeds, however, don’t do the rolling thing or the juice will have left the little ruby capsules and they’ll be dry and lacking in colour. There are various techniques to getting the seeds out intact from the fibrous white membranes – some say to tap them out, others just pick them out carefully, and a method I first read suggested by Ottolenghi is to scoop everything out, membranes and all, into a bowl of water. The pithy bits all float to the top and the seeds sink – so you scoop the top off and the drain the seeds to use. I used this method last time and it wasn’t quite as clear-cut as that – some of the seeds were intent on floating, and some of the pith on sinking – but by and large it worked.