Category Archives: Rich Pickings

Pining for flavour

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Sick of paying $70 to $100/kilo for stubby little Korean pine nuts that already taste a bit rancid? I am. The past few years I’ve been stocking up on them at the Sandringham Food Market shops where they sometimes have them going for as cheap as $30/kilo, so I can throw them generously into dishes – but there’s no pretending they’re anywhere near as good as the locally grown Pinoli pine nuts, which are deliciously fresh, long and sweet, with a rich price to match.

Palpitations for me today then, when I discovered an Afghani grocer’s in Avondale that stocks these amazing pine nuts in the shell, imported from Afghanistan. Food miles what? I’m supporting the rebuild of the Afghan economy. They’re purportedly organic, and the same goes for quite a good deal of the nuts and dried fruits available in bulk at this wee gem of a store, Quandahari Bazaar. Here you will find shelled pistachios boasting pretty pink/purple/green skins, dried mulberries, 4 or 5 different grades of medjool dates, Bulgarian goat/sheep/cow feta, pure pomegranate juice, huge sacks of top-grade basmati, spices galore, and much more. The current owners bought the shop six months or so ago and have overhauled the stock so they now boast a really quite impressive bazaar. It’s just near the roundabout at the bottom of St Jude St and you should go there.

And the pine nuts taste – funnily enough – a little bit like Christmas. They have a distinct resinous pine note, but a sweetness that balances that. Delicious. You use your thumb nail, or our teeth, to crack the wider, rounder end open, then slip out the kernel. At $39.99/kilo, they’re incredible value.

Quandahari Bazaar

1 St Jude St, Avondale

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My Market

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Here’s a terrible (sorry!) night shot of the goodies I arrived home to lat one evening recently from the online international food bazaar that is My Market. This site is bursting with brilliance on a number of fronts: they stock a huge range, with a big focus on Middle Eatern foods (director Antonion Jalilian is of Iranian/Greek heritage), but also hard-to-source European, South African and South American items; they deliver throughout the country, and if you’re in Auckland, if you order before 3pm you’ll get your goodies delivered that very evening.

You all know I love my local ethnic food stores, and I love going on foot to do my shopping becasue I’m lucky enough to live in an area with lots on offer, but there are many times I’m sitting at work thinking about what to make for make for dinner or the fact my pantry needs stocking with staples, when My Market comes in very handy.

Some of my fave from the site thus far:

- The small but good range of European cheeses – aged or mild firm goat’s; Georgian sulguni; fresh cottage cheese and more – all well-priced. Ditto the cured meats.

- Exotic items such as those used in Persian cooking - barberries, sour cherries, whey, sauteed herbs - hard to get anywhere but the Persian shops close to me in Mt Eden, but My Market has them and can deliver anywhere. plus other Middle Eastern essentials like fresh dates, pickles, olives, dried rose petals, nuts and seeds.

 

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Semolina semantics

In a Farro-induced trance the other day I stumbled upon Palestinian couscous. Hold on, I thought – is this just Israeli couscous with a side of branding? Well, this pack was a Trade Aid product, made by Palestinian women in Jericho.  And technically speaking, it looked distinct from what I’ve seen sold as “Israeli couscous”: this one was a bit browner (whole wheat), and kind of less perfectly spherical, if you like. The Arabic word for it is apparently maftoul. Anyway, I bought it and made a fantastic salad out of it with a herb-evoo paste, spring onions, pine nuts and delicious Whangaripo buffalo fresca. When couscous was all the rage – say, late 90s early 00s I ‘spose – we knew only of the Moroccan sort: small, white, light and fluffy if cooked well; a gluggy mess if not. These days you can take your pick – Moroccan, Israeli, Palestinian, and another ‘giant’ version I’ve bought from the Lebanese deli down the road, labelled moghrabieh.

The point of this story, I suppose, is that I love how we’re starting to dig so much deeper into different cuisines; turning up regional variations from all sorts of cuisines. Down the road from me in the Balmoral shops, you can eat your way round China – from Hong Kong to Henan with plenty of Beijng noodles in between. It’s also the idea that cultures and religions at loggerheads often share such achingly similar  culinary traditions. A few weeks ago I interviewed Yotam Ottolenghi about his and Sami Tamimi’s new cookbook, the excellent Jerusalem. He said food is the only thing that brings Jews and Muslims together in his hometown, the holy city; people might sit side by side to enjoy a meal in an eatery (and, my goodness, what amazing eateries they must have in that city). But, he lamented, even that is happening less and less. “It really is sad”, he said, and I agreed. It really is sad.

 

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Seresin Estate evoo

Yep, evoo bugs me big time, every time I write it or see it written – but who wants to type or read ‘extra virgin olive oil’ over and over? In any case, the range of evoo produced by Marlbourough’s Seresin Estate is a very fine complement to their equally beautiful wines. I’ve recently been enjoying them in a whole host of ways – soaking them up with a good ciabatta or sourdough, and glugging them over pasta and salads aplenty. Here’s a gift set of the three infusions – orange, lemon and lime – plus the organic oil, that retails for about $45. A little goes a long way with the flavoured oils, so they’re really a great investment. My favourite is the lime – it’s less overtly citrusy than the lemon, and not as flowery as the orange. Fantastic, of course, on fish, and I’ve also been using it in Mexican salsas and guacamole. I love the orange oil on couscous – it has that decadent Moorish note to it, also brilliant with lamb and chicken. The lemon is pretty versatile and, somewhat surprisingly, the strongest flavour of the three, so you really only need a teeny bit to liven up a dish. I love it dripped onto avocado, tomato and rocket on toast. Oh, and with that whole Fair Go revelation that a huge amount of the imported olive oil we’re reaching for is both rancid and far from virgin, buying local olive oil makes even more sense. Now, to find a local producer who can sell in bigger quantities at a more reasonable price, so we can pour it over things liberally without hearing the ping of a cash register – anyone?

 

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Serandib

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This is the lovely new incarnation of Sri Lankan supplies store Serandib, previously in much smaller digs up in the Mt Roskill shops proper. In its new home, right next to the excellent La Voie Francaise, Serandib (875 Dominion Rd, Mt Roskill) is a spacious, incredibly orderly Aladdin’s Cave of all things edible and Sri Lankan. As expected, there’s a fine selection of chilli sauces, sambals and dried chilli products. There’s a number of bulk bins offering spices, pulses and grains at good value. The whole back wall is dedicated to preserved fish of one kind or another, which serves to remind me that Sri Lanka is, of course, an island, and boasts a cuisine that is perhaps as much linked to that of Indonesia and Thailand as it is to India. The rice on offer includes ‘Samba’, with teeny little polished grains – short like sushi rice but much finer – quite beautiful.

The owners, pictured, are some of the loveliest most helpful people you could chance upon, and wear their snazzy uniform with pride. They gave us a tip-off about Ceylon Sizzle – Sri Lankan restaurant out Papakura way that they reckon is worth a visit. So much great stuff to be found at Serandid, regardless of whether you’re planning A Sri Lankan menu or otherwise - coconut milk at a bargain price of $1.70 a can, mustard seeds 35c/100g, MD chilli & vinegar sauce 2 for $5 and downright delicious.

Most of all I’m loving that this little strip of Dominion Rd is becoming quite the example of how diverse Auckland’s cuisine has become. Dosa Plaza, La Voie Francaise and now Serandib, I salute you!

 

 

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Much Ado over Macarons

Among all the hype over macarons these past few years, I must say I’ve been a bit of a naysayer. I’d never really understood the big deal over what, to me, tends to be a sickly sweet confection lacking in the textural delight one might expect. Then I tried the macarons from La Voie Francaise and, boom! They’re pretty good. Here’s a photo of the berry one, basking in the April sun – blackberry? Boysenberry? I can’t quite remember, sorry. The chocolate ones are very fine, too. These macarons were not as saccharine as those in my past, and possessed a crust to crow about. So now I get it. A good macaron is something to swoon over.

 

 

 

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La Voie Francaise

At the uncool end of Dominion Rd, opposite a Chinese restaurant that seems to specialise in health-promoting offal dishes (Ox penis stew: good for pain in the loin!) is a recent addition to the area that is very, very well worth a visit. La Voie Francaise is the first sole venture of baker Tetsuya Namekawa, who  – according to reports, as the guy himself seems very hard to hunt down (but I’m working on it) – has worked alongside master baker Pierre Herme, and as pastry chef in Auckland kitchens Kermadec and Bracu. When I stumbled upon the bakery a few weeks back and inquired about who was behind the delights on offer there, the nice lady at the counter mentioned Tetsuya’s name and I remembered interviewing Peter Thornley, at Bracu a good few years ago, and him raving about his genius Japanese pastry chef – same guy.

I’ve since returned to La Voie Francaise quite a few times, even on days when it’s not open (Monday and Tuesday, I now know), and everything I’ve taken away from there has impressed me – though I can’t vouch for the coffee yet as I haven’t tried it. The baguettes, I think, could be th best in Auckland. The crust is the real deal – the kind that can cause a serious mouth injury if you’re not paying enough attention in the frenzy of your greed. The first time I visited Paris, I remember hearing the woeful tale of a fellow backpacker who had, it was told, literally split her tongue open on a native baguette. A lesson to us all, though it’s never much of a risk with the usual limp baguettes you buy here. But yes, Tetsuya’s could do a bit of damage. And they have that chewy interior, full of elongated holes, the perfect wee pockets for softened butter or tangy goat’s cheese. And like a good baguette should be, they’re best eaten the same day they’re made – tomorrow you can buy another one!

The caramel eclairs, the brioches (raisin or orange peel), various pastry-cream filled creations, simple breakfast baps of poached egg and bacon, buttery croissants, pans au chocolats – none has passed my lips without an exclamation of satisfaction. The guy can bake.

Another quite lovely thing about La Voir Francaise is its incredibly reasonable prices. A baguette will set you back a mere $2.50. A plain croissant just $1.50. A bargain in any language. Go there now – but not on a Monday or Tuesday, or you’ll feel sad for the rest of the day.

La Voie Francasie, Dominion Rd, Mt Roskill – can’t find the address online anywhere, and they don’t have any business cards -  so details to follow!

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Suburban Food Crawls: Balmoral

Here’s a new and, I hope, reasonably regular feature on Eats by Anna. My Suburban Food Crawl blogs aim to give the lowdown on a variety of suburbs in Auckland and are worth visiting with a bit of money in your pocket, and an empty stomach or some shopping bags and space waiting in your pantry and fridge at home. I’m starting with Balmoral not only because it’s just a stone’s throw from chez moi, but it’s a richly rewarding ‘burb to call into with food on the mind.

The dumplings at joints Barilla and New Flavour are the deserved subject of much to do. Tasty and cheap (around $9-11 for 20 big ‘uns), these two places have been responsible for the creation of many a food baby of late. I’ve written about Barilla previously, as have other bloggers. I’m not going to pick a favourite, suffice to say pop in to whichever has a free table. Last time I tried to squeeze through the door to New Flavour, the ensuing battle with a sea of hipsters was too much to bear and I moved on next door to Golden Tulip, a recent addition to the strip of Dominion Rd which probably most fairly stakes a claim as our own Chinatown here in Auckland. Golden Tulip isn’t Chinese though, it’s Malaysian. The food is pretty bloody tasty and while their prices are a notch higher than the neighbouring dumpling and noodle soup houses – around $16-24 for a main dish – aim to share, as the portions are very generous.

Over the road there’s Ras Vatika, specialising in Indian of the strictly vegetarian persuasion, and then just under the lovely Capitol Cinema, Sushi Cafe is – for a similar price – a far nicer instant lunch option than plastic burgers over the road. Along the strip, there are at least half a dozen places that have menus written solely in Chinese characters – I have to admit I can’t say much about any of these places yet – not because I don’t want to eat there, but because it’s a bit harder to do when you need to request a high chair and have about 30 minutes to play with until the kids get too scratchy and you decide to pack up the food that has just arrived and transport it home instead… casual, adventurous dining out just ain’t what it used to be for me and my husband. I think you need to try Shaolin Kung Fu Noodle at least once, just for its name – like I did. I thought the hand-pulled noodle soups weren’t bad, and the chilli factor is good for those who like that, but lamb features a lot on their menu, and I think perhaps that’s why I can detect a greasy smell in the air there that doesn’t sit too well with me. One Chinese restaurant we’ve been frequenting for over a decade in Balmoral is Sapor Noodle House, which I’ve also blogged about before, here. If you go there, definitely order the round beans with minced pork and olives.

Tucked behind the strip, beside the Warehouse, is Parklands Fruit and Vegetables, which, unlike so many places in this area, sells things that look and taste fresh. I’d happily do all my produce shopping there, except I find the prices a little ridiculous at times – like, when strawberries are $3 a punnet everywhere else, they’ll still be selling them for double that.

Zap 2 is one of the best Thai eateries in Auckland – I think so anyway and have blogged about it quite a few times previously. Don’t feel free to judge it properly though unless you order from the Isaan specialities menu, because like almost every Thai place in town, the standard Thai curries and stirfries at Zap 2 sometimes lean to the too-sweet side for my tastes. Across from Zap is the only Persian restaurant I know of in the city, Apadana – and please, if I’m wrong there then do let me know, I think we need many more Persian restaurants in Auckland because it’s a damn fine cuisine. The fact that we don’t seem to have a Persian cuisine scene in the city may be partly to blame for Apadana’s inability to stick with its ethnic roots, instead feeling the need to branch into woodfired pizzas, pasta and other things I’d be tempted to avoid in favour of  ghormeh sabzi and joojeh kebabs and the other authentic dishes on the menu.

There might well be a bit of a Persian community at large around Balmoral because just down from Apadana is  Persian Network, which must be the only grocery store in town, surely, where you can also pick up a nice Persian rug with your pistachios and pomegranate molasses. Nope! Not the only one – you can also buy a rug, or have your rug repaired at the other local Persian store, Persian Trading, a stone’s throw away on the corner of Mt Eden and Shackleton Rds. If you’re wondering where to buy Perisan fairy floss to make your pavlova look and sound much posher, here’s where – for much less than you’ll buy it at the gourmet stores round town. And do try the fizzy yoghurt drink called ayran – it’s popular in various forms all round the Middle East and is pretty good for you, too.

The restaurant Cazador, a little farther up Dominion Rd than the Balmoral shops, also has a Persian connection via the owner, and several of the dishes on the game-based menu reflect that. The place has been serving up wild meats for over two decades now, and recent reviews have been pretty good – it seems it pays to book well in advance as the place does book out. Next to Cazador, funnily enough, you can buy an air gun, but you can also buy bhuja mix, mango barfi and other such delights at Auckland Indian Sweets & Snacks – another place that has been operating for years. I think you should check out their website, too, because it has an awesomely colourful intro.

And that’s as far up Dominion Rd as Balmoral really takes you before you enter the realm of Roskill. Keep checking back for more Suburban Food Crawls, or follow my blog using the tab on the top left. Please feel free to comment with any additions to the Balmoral Food Crawl – there are places I’ve missed out due to space and surely more places I don’t even know about yet. Oh and here’s a cool blog that does eating on Dominion Rd for under $30 – but it seems to have gotten stuck in July last year -  gst price hikes, ran out of places to eat at? Not sure, but it would be cool to see it keep going, I enjoyed what I’ve read of it thus far.

 

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February at Avondale Markets

 

Avondale Markets was teeming with life on a hot, humid Sunday morning in February. The warm hues of citrus, plums and tomatoes dominated the colour palette, along with a background of green – fresh herbs in abundance. Here are a few of the more exciting things I found at Avondale last Sunday:

Thai shallots – you can’t buy these regularly anywhere else (correct me if I’m wrong and you know of somewhere, I’d love to know too). Find them at the stall near the second corner in (at the carpark end). Thai shallots have a reddish skin and a pink to purple-blushed flesh. They are much smaller, and their flavour is more pronounced than that of brown shallots. Excellent crushed into Thai curry pastes, as well as thinly sliced into laab and salads and pickles, but equally good in Western dishes. Last night I used them to make a buerre blanc, infused with basil, to go with freshly-caught snapper. The Thai family who run this stall also sell the bird’s eye chillis pictures here. They’re great – I used one, finely shopped, to add heat to a raw fish laab the other night and that heat was perfect – warm and tingling but not searing.

Backyard green grapes – organic and in possession of an aroma and flavour completely unlike any imported grapes. The smell, and then the taste of these transported me right back to my childhood home which had a good vine growing the length of the fence down between us and the neighbours.

Black Doris plums – or as the stallholder had them labelled, ‘Black Dorres’ – nice, has a Spanish kind of ring to it. These ones had the wax bloom intact, a good indicator of freshness. I’ve always been a red-flesh plum girl, yet yellow-flesh plums are about all you can ever buy at most greengrocers’. Black Doris are the ultimate red-flesh plum, great for sinking your teeth into as is, or for preserving and jam-making.

Fijian ginger – so fresh it was still wearing a pretty pink blush. Apparently Fijian ginger is superior – high in the oleoresins that provide flavour and health benefits, and low in fibre, so not woody. The stall I got this from is the one on the carpark-side corner at the far right, before you cross over into bric-a-brac territory. I love this stall, full of Fijian produce like green papaya, fresh turmeric, okra in different sizes and all sorts of Indian herbs.

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Wilt thou buy me?

When I first moved in to this neighbourhood two years ago, I was chuffed to find I had a greengrocer’s-cum-general store at the end of the street that sold fresh, tasty fruit and vegetables as well as other bits and bobs you’d find yourself needing of an average day – milk, bread, cheeses, yoghurt, Nippy’s ice chocolate , addictive homemade vegetable samosas. Not long after we moved in, a nuclear bomb must have gone off somewhere without my knowledge. Suddenly everything in this store started to look wilted, the end of one fridge was piled with items way past their expiry with about 10 cents taken off to to entice you to risk your life eating them. I’d get to the till and worry I was supposed to produce coupons, not cash – surely, fresh, tasty produce was being rationed this end of Eden? Well, they didn’t want coupons in fact, they wanted cash, and more cash than even the evil supermarkets were asking. Things were looking a sickening shade of desperate, and that’s how they’ve stayed since. My local friends and I know it as “the Survival Store”: sometimes needs must and I venture in there while out on a stroll, hoping I might spy a bunch of asparagus that’s not just a green-coloured dental floss, a peach that’s not about to turn to dust.

Yes, it was a bit of a setback in my dream of being able to feel locally smug – to have everything I wanted within walking distance. Yes, I do have to drive to get decent fruit and vegetables, and I’ll stop pissing around now and give you short list of greengrocers’ and markets that I reckon are worth driving to, or at least calling into if you’re in the vicinity. As always, my list here is based on quality AND price. I’m not about frequenting produce purveyors that think it’s okay to charge ten times the wholesale price, just because they can (and there’s plenty of them around my area, thanks).

1. Avondale Markets, Avondale Racecourse, Sundays 6am-12pm – the best fresh produce market in the city.

2. Otara Markets, Newbury St, Otara, Saturdays 6am-12pm.

3. La Cigale, 69 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell, Saturdays 8am-1.30pm, Sundays 9am-1.30pm

4. Art of Produce, 36a Crummer Rd, Grey Lynn – a wholesaler that is open to the public selling at around retail minus 15 percent-ish. Everything fresh, with chillers super-cool. Also sells Italian cheeses and (coming soon) prosciutto. A lot of the stock is apprently (unlabelled as such) organic. When I popped in the other day the lovely owner threw some free nectarines and apples into my bag without me even knowing, awww, sweet! I found green papaya here, which he says they stock regularly. Only place I know other than Avondale to find it.He tells me they also sometimes get Thai shallots which I shall now stalk them for.

5. JHC Fruit and Vegetables, 401-417 Khyber Pass Rd, Newmarket – it ain’t flash, but this place has a great range of goods. All the fresh fruit and veg you could want plus Asian groceries. Most of the stuff here is crisp and fresh, there’s the odd brown banana but they discount that kinda thing by more than 10 cents. They have a few more interesting things like fresh lemongrass, and I bought my bamboo rice steamer here.

6. Wesley Community Centre Markets, Wesley Community Centre carpark, Sandringham, Tuesdays and Friday mornings. Like one aisle of Avondale, which believe me is a good thing if you don’t have all morning and don’t fancy crowds. I like that they only really seem to be selling what is in season, and often have different prices for different grades of each thing – last time I went there were three differently-priced eggplants, depending on their sheen and plumpness. Nice one.

7. Royal Fresh, Royal Oak Mall, Royal Oak. Discovered this place while shopping at Pick & Scab (or Pak & Chav?), who are racketeers when it comes to produce prices. Everything at Royal Fresh, across the carpark, is much cheaper and the same or better quality. Thought their globe artichokes were well over-priced last year, sort it out! I like that they have lesser-seen seasonal things like Jerusalem Artichokes and Kohlrabi.

So that’s my short, by no means exhaustive, list. Sure, there are plenty of other places I could rave about that do great fresh produce, but if they’re over-charging for it, what’s to love? This list is thus far very central-centric – I know there are fab places out Kumeu, Coatesville, Clevedon way, I stop at those fantastic orchard shops whenever I’m passing through. How about you? Where do you trust for fresh produce at a fair price? Let me know any other great places you frequent, or know about, in the Auckland region.

Otara Market

JHC, Newmarket

Avondale Market

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