Category Archives: Best In Season

An Angle on Galangal

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Pretty, highly perfumed flowers crowning my galangal plants in the garden. A friend brought the rhizomes over from her garden on Great Barrier last year and I felt despondent when they seemed to die soon after I planted them – but last spring they sprang, and kept springing, so I know have two patches of them in a very sunny, dry spot. I haven’t dug up any of the rhizomes yet to cook with, but when I do I’ll try them in fragrant Malaysian and Vietnamese curries, laksa and tom yam. Galangal has an elusive flavor I think – it’s at once resinous and piney, soapy, warm and fiery. It’s the complicated sister of ginger.

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Pom poms

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I’ve been scoring almost a whole cup of juice out of pomegranates lately – they’re imported, of course, but they seem to be much riper when they arrive at this time of year. If  I want them for the juice, I roll them round on the benchtop with a bit of pressure; this releases all the juices that are locked inside the seeds. If you want to use the seeds, however, don’t do the rolling thing or the juice will have left the little ruby capsules and they’ll be dry and lacking in colour. There are various techniques to getting the seeds out intact from the fibrous white membranes – some say to tap them out, others just pick them out carefully, and a method I first read suggested by Ottolenghi is to scoop everything out, membranes and all, into a bowl of water. The pithy bits all float to the top and the seeds sink – so you scoop the top off and the drain the seeds to use. I used this method last time and it wasn’t quite as clear-cut as that – some of the seeds were intent on floating, and some of the pith on sinking – but by and large it worked.

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Walnut Shortbread

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Now is the time of year to get your hands on fresh, locally grown walnuts in the shell. If you think you hate walnuts, you can’t have eaten these babies. Anti-walnut sentiments are more likely the result of the fat most of what you buy in the shops, shelled and in bulk or packaged up, is imported and long gone rancid by the time it touches your lips. Fresh walnuts, on the other hand, are an utter delight. I picked some up the other day and found this recipe for Walnut Shortbread in the excellent Popina Book of Baking. I’ve simply adapted the method a bit – I used a small mortar and pestle to break up the nuts (hate dragging out the processor unless I absolutely have to), plus I found the dough was just too dry to roll into a log as her method suggests, so rather than risk adding extra butter at that late stage, I just skipped the log step and formed the dough into balls before baking. Made for less perfectly shaped biscuits, but they were pretty nonetheless and tasted amazing! There’s not much butter in this, as shortbread goes, but the oil in the walnuts must make up the difference, and give these biscuits a wonderful nutty, earthy flavour with a silky texture.

 

Walnut Shortbread

Adapted from Popina Book of Baking, Isidora Popovic, Ryland Peters & Small, 2010.

100g shelled, roasted fresh walnuts –  half finely crushed and half in larger chunks

90g unsalted butter, softened

60g golden caster sugar

A few drops vanilla extract (I use Heilala)

125g plain flour

Icing sugar, to dust

 

Preheat oven to 130 degrees Celcius.

Cream butter, sugar and vanilla in mixing bowl until light and fluffy. Stir in walnuts, then gently fold in flour until well mixed.

Roll dough into ping-pong sized balls and arrange on a baking tray.

Bake for about 30 minutes – they should still be slightly soft in the middle.  Remove from the oven and dust with icing sugar. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

 

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In Season: Beautiful Butternut

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The vibrant orange of a ripe butternut squash must be one of the most beautiful colours on display in the vegetable kingdom. I’m not a big pumpkin/squash/ person, for the most part, but I welcome butternut, with its sweet yet not cloying, less tacky flesh, into my kitchen in Autumn. (There’s something about the way pumpkin sticks to the roof of one’s mouth that is downright disconcerting). The butternut in my kitchen goes into roast vegetable medleys and warm salads, pasta, risotto, and more. One thing I’ve done quite a bit this week, with butternut that has been roasted, is to make pita toasties filled with that and a tangy, creamy feta: superb. The toasties I make in my Breville toasted sandwich maker (the kind you can also lock apart to melt emmental onto croissants, for example). I don’t like to fill precious kitchen space with clunky implements, but this thing gets a hell of a lot of use in my house, and because it’s reasonably flat it fits in a draw. Recommend!

……..More

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In Season: Limes

Just as your summer cravings for mojitos, juicy salsas and poisson cru subside, the citrus fruit at the heart of such refreshing concoctions comes into season, and the price begins to fall from the absurd to something much more realistic. Someone needs to tell limes to sort their seasons out! As it is, limes begin to get more affordable around April, and reach their peak this month. Most of the limes grown commercially here are the Tahitian variety (also known as Persian lime), a juicy, seedless all-rounder for use in savoury and sweet dishes. Other varieties include kaffir lime, the leaves of which are more sought after than the knobbly fruit; Key limes, the more acidic and bitter star of the eponymous Floridian meringue-topped pie, and – juicier brother to the Key, and therefore excellent for cocktail-making – the Mexican lime.

Buying, storing & cooking.

  • Tahitian limes are, in fact,  unripe when bright green and glossy, but that is how they are sold in shops, presumably because buyers find them more appealing that way. Limes of that colour won’t be very juicy. The ripe fruit that will give you the most juice for your dollar have pale yellow skins that are still smooth – you’re more likely to find them at a market. But avoid shrivelled looking yellow limes; they’re old.
  • Store limes in the fruit bowl until ripe, then in a brown paper bag in the vegetable crisper.
  • The flavour of limes is destroyed by cooking, so add the juice at the end, or towards the end, of cooking.

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Oriental Eggplant

These pretty lavender-coloured eggplants look like long fat fingers, a shape which makes them super easy to prepare. There are actually many varieties of long eggplant from the Orient, so you might spot some with a mottled skin, some pale lilac and some a richer purple.  Their skin is often thinner than the better-known, darker-skinned eggplant, which means they’re great for stir-frying, sauteing and other quick-cook methods. The creamy flesh holds its shape rather well, too. You can commonly buy this Oriental variety of eggplant at greengrocers’, Asian grocers’, and at markets, and they’re happy to be grown at home if you live in warmer climes. They’re often just called long eggplant in the shops, but this label is confusing as there are other varieties of long eggplant with different characteristics.

5 facts about eggplant:
- All eggplant varieties probably originated around India and Sri Lanka.
- It’s a fruit, a member of the nightshade family, which also includes tomatoes, potatoes and peppers. A sensitivity or allergy to consuming plants in this family is quite common.
- Eggplants are primarily water – over 90%.
- China is the biggest eggplant grower in the world.
- It’s brain food – a property called nasunin found in eggplant has been shown to protect brain cell membranes from free radical damage.

Buying and storing:
- Look for firm, glossy smooth-skinned eggplants with no wrinkling. An eggplant is good for eating if, when you push the skin with your thumb, dents but springs back. Store in a cool dry place – in a bag if in the fridge – and use within a few days.
5 simple ideas with Oriental eggplant:

- For a simple side dish, slice eggplants in half lengthways, brush with sesame oil and grill on the barbecue. Scatter over toasted sesame seeds and some finely chopped garlic chives and squeeze over a little lemon juice.
- Slice eggplant into rounds a couple of inches thick and braise with pork belly in a Chinese-style stock with hoisin and soy sauces, star anise and Shaoxing wine. Serve with steamed rice.
- Sweet with creamy flesh, it works beautifully in a summery roast vegetable salad with kumara, chargrilled capsicum, and rocket, tossed with mint leaves and dressed with aioli.
- Eggplant and miso is a favourite combination in Japan, where this variety is common. Julienne the eggplant and simmer in a combination of miso paste, sugar and water until tender and serve with steamed rice or soba noodles.
- Use instead of regular eggplant in a refreshing ratatouille served cold alongside barbecued meats.

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Thai Basil

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More on basil! And why not, it’s going bananas in my garden right now, so it’s well worth a look at different varieties and some recipe ideas to use them in.Thai basil – also known as sweet basil, licorice basil or horapa in Thai – is readily available in pots in supermarkets and greengrocers’, and you can pick up seedlings and seeds (or save seeds) to grow the herb yourself. It does well in pots and once it’s established in a garden, it doesn’t need much attention.You can root a fresh stem by keeping it in a glass of water outside the refrigerator. Store cut basil in the refrigerator – it’s best standing upright in a glass of water, covered with a plastic bag. Or wrap in kitchen paper then pop in a plastic bag and keep for up to a week. You can use both the leaves and the pretty purple flowers.

Thai basil has an unmistakable flavour: sweet, fragrant, with an obvious anise note – it contains the same chemical compound that gives liquorice its taste. It’s therefore quite a strong element to add to a dish, so you want to match it with other strong flavours, be they spicy, sour, bitter or sweet.

- Try Thai basil in a summer salad of watermelon, feta and red onion dressed simply with lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil.
- Thai basil is an essential addition to red curries – add a generous number of fresh leaves right at the end of cooking, as it loses its flavour with heat.
- Stir-fry scallops, cockles (clams) and squid over a very high heat, with fresh Thai chilli, fish sauce, sweet soy sauce, tamarind paste and copious amounts of Thai basil. Serve with steamed jasmine rice.
- Steam or barbecue whole fish with a marinade of lime juice, fish sauce, palm sugar and Thai basil.
- Try matching Thai basil with sweet flavours: in a fruit salad with pineapple and mango, or make a Thai basil panna cotta with coconut tuilles and a tropical fruit salsa.

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Holy Basil

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Three types of basil are used in Thai cuisine: sweet, anise flavoured, purple-flowered horapa (which we call Thai basil); maenglak – lemon flavoured and least commonly used, and kaprao – holy basil, the type most dear to Thai people. Last spring I found Holy Basil seedlings for sale at the Avondale Markets  (look for the Thai family selling herb seedlings and bromeliads, at the beginning of one of the aisles). I promptly planted six of them in different spots of my garden and they’re now ready to harvest. Interestingly, the plants don’t seem to go to flower as rapidly as regular basil or Thai basil, which is handy.

Before this I had never seen holy basil leaves or living plants for sale. And neither had I ever been served holy basil in a Thai restaurant here – despite the fact they use the word ”kaprao” on the menu, it’s inevitably Thai basil that is used as a substitute. And a poor substitute it is, really. I love Thai basil, but its unmistakable anise kick is completely different to the more complex and hard to describe flavour of holy basil. Raw, it’s more peppery than anything else, but when cooked its minty flavour and savoury base come to the fore.The leaves are thin, with jagged edges, and there are red (purple) and green varieties – the red has a more pronounced flavour.

Use holy basil in Thai stirfries – pad kaprao. You can either add the leaves toward the end of cooking, or you can also fry the leaves in a little oil to crispen them and preserve their colour, then use to garnish stirfries, soups and salads.

* The plants do well in containers and are said to ward off mosquitoes, another good reason to have a few out on the deck or patio in summer!

* Tulsi, as it’s known in India, is an important purifying herb in Ayuverdic thinking.

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Best in Season: Lebanese Cucumbers

There’s something alluring about miniature incarnations of vegetables – Brussels sprouts, baby carrots, turnips and beetroot, and cute, summery little Lebanese cucumbers. It’s not just that these smaller cucumbers are fairer of face; they also tend to be sweeter, crunchier and less prone to bitterness.With over 90 per cent water content (they were traditionally used in Europe to quench thirst) cucumbers make a refreshing bite for the hotter months – the perfect side to barbecued meats or spicy dishes.

Fattoush is a delicious, simple salad to show off ripe cucumbers and tomatoes. In a salad bowl, mix 2 thinly sliced Lebanese cucumbers with 2 ripe tomatoes cut into wedges (or cherry tomatoes to keep with the miniatures theme), 1 cup purslane leaves (if available, otherwise roughly torn iceberg lettuce), 1/2 cup each roughly chopped parsley and mint and a small, thinly sliced red onion. Heat a little olive oil in a frying pan and fry fragments of pita bread until golden and just starting to crisp. Add to the salad once cooled. Dress it all with 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, 2 cloves crushed garlic, juice 1 lemon, 2 tsp sumac and 1 tsp salt, whisked together.

In South East Asia, small cucumbers are often used in piquant garnishes and side dishes. Try this one alongside Thai fish cakes or barbecued chicken: Halve 2 Lebanese cucumbers and scoop out seeds, then slice very thinly on the diagonal to make delicate crescents. Place in a bowl with a handful thinly sliced shallots, 1 shredded carrot, 1 finely chopped hot chilli, 2 Tbsp fish sauce, 1 Tbsp palm sugar and juice 1 lime. Mix, then refrigerate overnight to pickle. Drain the liquid if desired, or serve in individual bowls so guests can dip barbecued morsels into the moreish juice.

Crispy-Soft Tofu on Buckwheat Soba

 

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So here’s something easy to do with those garlic scapes I was raving about. Another thing, I’ve realised they’re a lot easier to come by than I thought, and I’ve eaten them often in the past without knowing exactly what they were, having bought them at Asian supermarkets (Tai Ping, Silver Bell and the like). There they’re called garlic shoots and are sold longer, but still not really curly, with the flower head lopped off.

Anyway, a quick recipe idea for using garlic scapes:

-Pour hot water over dried wood ear fungus* (also called black fungus -sounds lovely, doesn’t it?) and soak for an hour or more.

-Mix a dressing (approx equal quantities, a bit less of the oil) of gochujang, Japanese soy or tamari sauce, sesame oil, mirin and rice wine vinegar, with some toasted white sesame seeds.

-Coat large pieces of firm tofu in a mix of tapioca (or rice, potato, corn) flour, dried chilli, powdered ginger, dried seaweed such as Pacific Harvest Sea Lettuce.  Heat 1/4 cup or so of rice-bran oil in a wok and when it’s bubbling, fry tofu on each side till golden and crispy on the outside.

-Meanwhile blanch garlic scapes and courgette (or other green vegetable), then stirfry over high heat with softened black fungus and a little oyster or mushroom sauce.

-Cook buckwheat soba according to instructions (about 5 minutes in boiling water, then refresh and drain very well), and divide between serving bowls. Top with the stirfried vegetables and then the crispy tofu, with a few petals of pickles ginger on top. Pour over dressing and serve.

*Wood ear fungus is sold dried at Asian supermarkets. It needs to be soaked in hot water for an hour or so before cooking with it, to soften, It swells considerably, so be frugal with how much of the dried stuff you use or you’ll end up with a lot going to waste. It’s almost tasteless, but it’s all about the texture, which remains delightfully crunchy even after blasting in a hot wok or long slow braising. Here’s what it looks like:

 

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